TMB Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex-Lac, the day your legs get a break

After the Grand Col Ferret and its 20 kilometers the day before, your legs are begging for mercy. Stage 7 of the Tour du Mont-Blanc grants them a reprieve. No major pass, moderate elevation gain, a trail that threads through Swiss Val Ferret villages between forests and alpine pastures. The arrival at Champex-Lac, with its alpine lake, rowboats and botanical garden, feels almost like a vacation within a vacation.

Mountain hiking guides, we know this shift in rhythm well. It catches hikers off guard after the big efforts of the previous days. This "easy" TMB stage is not insignificant, though: it is the one where you take the time to look around, discover Valaisan mountain architecture, and recharge your batteries before the Fenetre d'Arpette or Col de Bovine awaiting the next day.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 14.8 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 436 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 561 m

Stage 7 at a Glance

Note: This is the shortest and easiest stage on the TMB. It can be merged with the end of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret) in 10-day itineraries. Some hikers in a rush combine both, but that is a shame: arriving late at Champex means missing the lake swim and the botanical garden.

The Swiss Val Ferret: Raccards, Villages and Tranquility

You leave La Fouly on a trail along the right bank of the Dranse de Ferret. The river, fed by the glaciers of Mont Dolent and Saleina, provides a constant backdrop of rushing water through the first part of the stage. The trail passes through a forest of spruce and larch before opening onto the hay meadows of Les Arlaches hamlet.

This is where the raccards become ubiquitous. These small granaries of darkened wood, perched on stilts and capped with flat stone slabs, were used to store grain safe from rodents. The slabs, placed on each pillar, created an impassable barrier for mice. Functional and elegant, they have become the architectural emblem of the Valais. You will pass dozens between La Fouly and Champex in varying states of preservation, some converted into residential annexes, others still standing by the sheer grace of their timber framing.

Praz-de-Fort and Les Arlaches: the Villages Along the Way

The trail passes through Les Arlaches, then reaches Praz-de-Fort (1,151 m), the most important village in the valley before Champex. The church, the fountains, the facades of wood blackened by time: this is deep Romandie Switzerland, a place that lives on livestock and timber, far from mass tourism. A small shop and a cafe allow you to pause and refill your water bottles.

Praz-de-Fort is also the starting point for alpine routes to the Cabane de Saleina and the Cabane de l'A Neuve, an eagle's nest perched facing Mont Dolent (3,823 m), the summit where three borders meet. These high-mountain refuges are frequented by mountaineers aiming for the summits of the Aiguille d'Argentiere (3,900 m) or the Chardonnet (3,824 m). From the TMB trail, you can sometimes spot them, tiny bright dots clinging to the rock.

After Praz-de-Fort, the path climbs gently toward the hamlet of Issert (1,055 m), then crosses a zone of open pastures. The Herens cows, small and feisty, are right at home here. They fight naturally to establish the herd hierarchy, a spectacle that the Valaisans have elevated to a local tradition with their "combats de reines" (queen fights).

The Final Climb to Champex-Lac

After Issert, the trail leaves the valley floor and climbs through forest toward Champex. This is the only real ascent of the day: about 400 meters of elevation gain on a switchback trail through coniferous forest. The gradient is steady and shaded, pleasant even in hot weather.

The surprise comes at the top. After hours of walking through a classic alpine valley, you emerge at a lake. Champex-Lac (1,466 m) appears as a small world apart: an oval lake, moored rowboats, hotels with flower-decked shutters, an alpine botanical garden. The nickname "Switzerland's little Canada" makes perfect sense when you walk along the shore lined with conifers and catch sight of the snow-capped peaks as a backdrop.

Champex-Lac: What to Do on Arrival

Champex-Lac is a discreet resort village, without the buzz of Courmayeur or the austerity of high-altitude refuges. It is the ideal spot for a half-day of recovery.

• Swimming in the lake: possible and refreshing (water temperature around 18-20 C in summer). Pedal boats and rowboats are available for rent on the shore.
• Flore-Alpe Alpine Botanical Garden: created in 1925, it brings together more than 4,000 species of mountain plants from around the world. A short visit (30 minutes is enough) but a surprising one, especially for amateur botanists.
• La Breya chairlift: in season, it climbs to 2,188 m and offers a viewpoint over the Grand Combin (4,314 m). Starting point for the Cabane d'Orny (2,811 m), a gathering spot for climbers.

This is also the time to do laundry, dry your gear, and plan ahead. The next stage, toward Trient, presents a crucial choice between the Bovine alpine pasture (bucolic) and the Fenetre d'Arpette (committed). Champex is the right moment to check the forecast and decide.

Accommodation at Champex-Lac

Champex offers a wider range of lodging than most TMB stages:

• Auberge du Bon Abri: the historic address for TMB hikers. Dormitories and private rooms, hearty meals, friendly atmosphere.
• Relais d'Arpette (1,627 m): slightly above the village, on the path to the Fenetre d'Arpette. Convenient if you plan to take that variant the next day. Dormitories and rooms, forest setting.
• Village hotels: several small hotels with lake views, at Swiss prices (expect 100-150 CHF per night for a double room).
• Camping: available on the outskirts of the village for self-supported hikers.

Reservations are essential in July and August. Champex is a popular stop and capacity remains limited. Book at least a week in advance.

Practical Tips

Water and Resupply

Water is easily accessible throughout the stage: fountains at La Fouly, Les Arlaches, Praz-de-Fort and Champex. No dry sections. The shop at Praz-de-Fort allows for light resupply. In Champex, you will find a well-stocked grocery store (note the hours: closed between noon and 2 PM).

Weather and Timing

This stage presents no particular weather concerns: no exposed pass, trail mostly in forest or on the valley floor. You can afford a late start (9 AM) and arrive in Champex by early afternoon, leaving time for the lake and the botanical garden.

In rain, the forest trail between Issert and Champex can become muddy. Nothing technical, but trekking poles are useful for stability on the climbs.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 7

How long does it take to hike from La Fouly to Champex-Lac?

Allow 4h30 to 5h30 of actual hiking time, depending on your pace. With breaks in the village of Praz-de-Fort and the arrival at Champex, plan for 6 to 7 hours total. This is the shortest stage on the TMB, ideal for recovery.

Can you combine Stage 7 with Stage 6 or Stage 8?

Yes, and it is common in 7-day itineraries. Combining Grand Col Ferret plus La Fouly to Champex in a single day is doable for fit hikers, but it adds up to roughly 35 km and 1,500 m of elevation gain. You can also combine Champex to Trient with La Fouly to Champex by starting early and going via Bovine (not via the Fenetre d'Arpette, which is too long). In our TMB in 7 days, we use a Champex-La Fouly transfer to optimize the itinerary.

Is Champex-Lac worth stopping at?

Yes. Champex is one of the rare spots on the TMB where you can truly relax: lake, terraces, botanical garden, shops. After several days of intensive hiking, this break does wonders for both body and morale. Skipping Champex to save time means missing one of the charms of the Swiss TMB.

What Comes Next on the TMB

From Champex, the next stage leads to Trient with a choice that divides hikers: the Bovine alpine pasture for a gentle option, or the Fenetre d'Arpette (2,665 m) for a serious thrill. It is one of the most debated decisions on the TMB.

To see where this stage fits into the full circuit, our complete Tour du Mont-Blanc overview covers all 11 stages, variants and logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with selected accommodations and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just come from Stage 6, Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via the Grand Col Ferret: the Italy-to-Switzerland crossing is still fresh. Ahead, the final stages lead you progressively back toward Chamonix.

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