TMB Stage 5: From Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti

From the terrace of the Refuge Bonatti, the Grandes Jorasses fill the horizon. Not as a distant backdrop, not a soft watercolor behind other peaks: dead ahead, close enough to make you hold your breath, the 1,200-metre north face stares back at you while you drink your morning coffee. It is one of the most striking views on the entire Tour du Mont-Blanc, and it is your reward for completing this fifth stage.

I have a personal attachment to this stretch of trail. It was here, during a loop through the Val d'Aoste, that I first laid eyes on Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses. Courmayeur sits at 1,224 metres. The Refuge Bonatti sits at 2,026 metres. Over 12.5 kilometers, the trail climbs steadily with very little descent, gaining altitude through the Italian Val Ferret, a pastoral valley dominated by the spires and glaciers of the massif's southern flank. This is a calm, uphill stage, far from the crowds of Chamonix, where the TMB recovers something wilder.

Two options are available: the classic route via the Refuge Bertone and the hamlet of Armina, through forest and along a balcony trail, or the variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge up to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m), more demanding and breathtakingly beautiful. This article covers both, along with terrain data, accommodation, and the story of the extraordinary alpinist whose name graces the refuge at the end of the day.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 11.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 944 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 176 m

Stage 5 at a Glance

A note on staging: in 7-day itineraries, the Courmayeur-to-Refuge Bonatti section is sometimes treated as a half-day that some planners merge with the start of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret). In the classic 11-stage breakdown, it stands as a full stage, short but physically sustained due to the continuous climb.

Leaving Courmayeur: The Climb Toward Villair

You leave Courmayeur heading toward the hamlets of Villair-Dessous and Villair-Dessus, perched on the right flank of the valley. The Valdostan architecture is on full display: grey stone houses, stone-slab roofs, narrow windows. The steep lanes quickly give way to the forest trail climbing toward the Refuge Bertone.

Larch forest dominates this first section of the stage. The trail gains altitude in steady switchbacks, never getting truly steep. It is a warm-up climb at a cruising pace, letting you digest Courmayeur and get your legs ready for what follows.

Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m): The First Overlook

After 2h30 to 3 hours of climbing, the Refuge Bertone delivers a panorama that stops conversation. An orientation table on the terrace faces the Mont Blanc massif, and it struggles to label everything visible: the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m / 13,806 ft), the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4,748 m / 15,577 ft), the pillars of the south face. This is the first true overlook on the Italian side after the long descent through Val Veni.

The refuge offers drinks and snacks. It makes a solid refueling stop before pushing on. It is also the fork between the classic route (continuing along the balcony trail toward Refuge Bonatti via Armina) and the Mont de la Saxe variant.

The Classic Route via Armina

From Bertone, the standard route follows the eastern flank of the Val Ferret along a balcony trail, through high pastures and scattered woodland. You pass the alpages of Sécheron (1,924 m) before reaching the Refuge Bonatti. The terrain is varied, the elevation gain moderate, and the views down the valley are constant. It is a pleasant segment with no technical difficulty, best enjoyed at a contemplative pace.

Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m)

The Refuge Bonatti is not just another mountain hut. Its position, on a balcony above the Val Ferret, facing the north wall of the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant (4,013 m / 13,166 ft), makes it one of the most spectacular locations on the entire circuit. The north-facing terrace gives a direct view of the Pointe Walker, the Pointe Whymper, and the Pointe Croz, the three principal summits of the Jorasses, less than 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) away as the crow flies.

The refuge was built in 1998 and bears the name of Walter Bonatti, an exceptional alpine guide born in Bergamo in 1930. The choice is deliberate: the Val Ferret and the southern flanks of Mont Blanc are deeply tied to this man's story.

Walter Bonatti (1930-2011): A Life Above the Vertical

At 19, Walter Bonatti tackled the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Piz Badile. In 1955, at 25, he completed a solo ascent of the southwest pillar of the Dru (3,730 m), a six-day solo route on vertical granite that cemented his place in the history of mountaineering.

In 1961, a tragedy unfolded just above the Val Veni that you crossed during Stage 4. Two roped teams became trapped by a storm on the central pillar of the Frêney: one Italian, led by Bonatti, the other French, led by Pierre Mazeaud. The storm lasted several days. Four climbers died (Andrea Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume, and Antoine Vieille). Bonatti and the survivors dragged themselves to the Refuge Gamba. What he later wrote about those days in his memoirs remains one of the most harrowing accounts in alpine literature.

In 1965, he signed off with one final masterpiece: the first winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn. He then left extreme alpinism behind, devoting himself to photojournalism and exploration across five continents. He died in 2011, at 81. The refuge bearing his name above the Val Ferret is a well-deserved tribute.

The Gervasutti Bivouac: The Most Improbable Shelter in the Massif

For curious hikers, the Gervasutti Bivouac deserves a mention. This metal capsule with 12 bunks, installed in 2011 at 2,835 metres on a rocky islet amid the Frébouze Glacier, at the foot of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, looks like a spaceship set down on the mountain. It is named after Giusto Gervasutti, a climber of the 1930s and 1940s, who in August 1942, with Giuseppe Gagliardone, made the first ascent of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, a 750-metre route rated Extremely Difficult. In 1946, while trying to free a rappel rope on Mont Blanc du Tacul, on the pillar that now bears his name, he fell and perished. The bivouac is not on the classic TMB route, but its metallic form is visible from certain points in the valley.

Variant: The Mont de la Saxe Ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m)

The Mont de la Saxe variant leaves the main trail above the Refuge Bertone and climbs onto the ridge overlooking the Val Ferret, topping out at 2,584 metres. The panorama that unfolds up there is one of the highlights of the Italian side: from Mont Blanc de Courmayeur to the Grandes Jorasses, passing the Dent du Géant and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the chain stretches across 180 degrees without interruption. It is the mountaineer's option: demanding, but stunningly beautiful.

The variant adds approximately 600 metres of additional elevation gain and about 2 hours of hiking. It is recommended under three conditions: clear weather with good visibility, fresh legs at the start from Courmayeur, and no snow on the ridge (before mid-July, check conditions). In fog or bad weather, stick with the classic forest route.

This is the variant we systematically choose with our groups when conditions allow. The view of the Grandes Jorasses from the ridge, at that distance and that altitude, has a precision that photos only partially capture.

A secondary viewpoint on this variant is worth noting: the Tête d'Entre-Deux-Sauts (2,729 m), reached by a faint side trail, offers a plunge view into the glacial basin of Frébouze and the walls of the Jorasses in all their verticality.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m) is the flagship lodging for this stage. Staffed from mid-June to mid-September, it offers dormitories and a few private rooms with dinner and breakfast included. The atmosphere is classic Italian mountain refuge: carefully prepared food, convivial dining, and a terrace you will not forget.

Reservations are mandatory in July and August. The refuge fills up fast. Book through rifugiobonatti.it at least two weeks ahead in peak season, and even earlier for weekends.

The Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m) is an alternative for those who prefer to split the stage. You sleep at the halfway point and reach the Bonatti the following morning. Less dramatic as a final destination, but more restful if your legs are starting to protest.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at the start (Courmayeur), at the Refuge Bertone, and at the finish. Between Bertone and Bonatti, water sources are scarce in peak season. Fill up with a liter at Bertone. For meals, leave Courmayeur with a hearty breakfast and plan to eat dinner at the Refuge Bonatti.

Weather

The upper section of the stage, above 1,800 metres, is exposed to afternoon thunderstorms. Departing early from Courmayeur (before 8 AM in peak season) lets you reach the refuge by early afternoon, before clouds build over the massif.

Poles and Footwear

The classic route presents no technical difficulty. The Mont de la Saxe variant may have lingering snow patches before mid-July and some rocky sections along the ridge. Trekking poles and shoes with solid grip are recommended in that case.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 5

How long does it take to get from Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti?

Allow 5 to 6 hours of actual hiking for the classic route (via Bertone and Armina). With the Mont de la Saxe variant, plan on 7 to 8 hours. The stage is predominantly uphill, which works your lungs more than your knees.

Is the Mont de la Saxe variant difficult?

It is longer and higher than the classic route but does not involve any technical terrain under normal summer conditions. The main challenge is the extra elevation gain (+600 m) and the length of the ridge, which is exposed to wind. Before mid-July, snow patches can complicate the passage. A solid fitness level is sufficient, with no specialized gear required.

Can you stay at Refuge Bonatti without a reservation?

Outside July and August, it is sometimes possible to show up without a reservation, but it is a gamble. The refuge is regularly full in peak season, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Booking online through the official website is strongly recommended.

When does Refuge Bonatti open and close?

The refuge is generally open from mid-June to mid-September, depending on snow conditions. It may open later in years with heavy snowfall. Check rifugiobonatti.it before your trip for the exact dates of the current season.

What Comes Next on the TMB

The Refuge Bonatti is the gateway to the Swiss section of the circuit. Stage 6 climbs to the Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m), the highest point on the classic TMB, and drops into Switzerland toward La Fouly and the Swiss Val Ferret.

To place this stage in the context of the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article details all 11 stages, variants, best periods, and full logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just come from Stage 4, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur: the night in the Valdostan resort town is behind you. Ahead lies Switzerland and its cheeses.

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