TMB Stage 2: Les Contamines-Montjoie → Les Chapieux

Leaving Les Contamines-Montjoie, the TMB changes gear. The bucolic Val Montjoie of the day before gives way to an unequivocal ascent: over 1,350 metres of elevation gain to cross two successive cols — the Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m) and the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479 m) — before dropping into Beaufortain and descending to the isolated hamlet of Les Chapieux.

This is the stage with the most elevation gain on the French section of the Tour du Mont-Blanc, and one of the richest in discoveries: it begins at the foot of a Baroque sanctuary, passes through a nature reserve, skirts a mysterious tumulus, and leads to the highest refuge on the entire circuit. We — the mountain guides Altimood — who lead the TMB consider this stage a turning point: it is often where we gauge the group's true fitness level, and where we decide whether to adjust the programme.

In this article, we describe the classic route via the Col du Bonhomme and the spectacular variant via the Col des Fours, with all the practical advice you need to tackle it with confidence.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 18.4 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 1337 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 917 m

Stage 2 at a Glance

Note on stage divisions: some TMB itineraries of fewer than 11 days modify this breakdown by stopping at the Refuge de Nant-Borrant (1,460 m) or at La Balme (1,706 m) to lighten the day. The route described here follows the classic version all the way to Les Chapieux.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge: The Gateway to the Wild Valley

The exit from Les Contamines-Montjoie follows the road along the Bon Nant, then a trail that climbs through the gorge to the sanctuary of Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge (1,210 m). This is not a detour: it is the TMB itself.

The sanctuary is one of the oldest pilgrimage sites in the Savoyard Alps. The current chapel was rebuilt in 1699 after a fire destroyed the previous building in 1518. The founding legend tells of a woodcutter who fell into the gorge of the Bon Nant and was miraculously caught in his fall. This miracle, attributed to the Virgin Mary, gave the place its reputation as a protector of all those who travel the great mountain paths. Setting off for the Col du Bonhomme, you slip — without meaning to — into a long tradition of walkers.

This Savoyard Baroque style, so prominent in the Val Montjoie, is no accident. The church of Les Contamines itself, built between 1758 and 1760 by Domenico Gualino de Stastegno, a master mason from Valsesia in Piedmont, is the closest example. These Italian craftsmen worked under the Duchy of Savoy, and their mark can be found on every sanctuary in the valley. The paths of Val Montjoie carry an even older memory: a Roman boundary stone engraved under Emperor Vespasian (74 AD) was discovered in this area, marking the frontier between the territory of the Ceutrones and that of the Allobroges. Before the pilgrimage, there was the road.

Just beyond Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge, you enter the Contamines-Montjoie Nature Reserve: 5,500 hectares classified since 1979, stretching from the valley floor up to 3,892 metres (the north summit of the Aiguille de Tre-la-Tete), covering six of the seven alpine bioclimatic zones. Dogs are permitted on a lead.

The Climb to the Col du Bonhomme

Above the sanctuary, the valley opens out into the alpine pastures of La Rollaz. The trail crosses meadows bordered by the Bon Nant, passes the Refuge de Nant-Borrant (1,460 m — a good place to refill water and grab a coffee), then climbs steadily to the Refuge de la Balme (1,706 m).

Beyond La Balme, the terrain changes character. The gradient steepens, the wide track gives way to a narrow path climbing along the crest of an old moraine. The landscape turns mineral. You are approaching the Plan des Dames.

The Plan des Dames

Halfway between La Balme and the Col du Bonhomme, the trail passes a stone tumulus known as the Plan des Dames. Tradition holds that this mound marks the resting place of a wealthy English aristocrat and her maid, victims of a storm in this exposed basin. No archive has ever confirmed the story, but the place has kept its name, and hikers sometimes leave a stone in passing. It is one of the TMB's quiet little traditions.

The Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m)

After the Plan des Dames, the trail traverses across the slope before entering the final cwm. The col opens between rocky blocks. An orientation table and a Michelin marker stand at the pass. From the Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m), the view tilts: you leave the Val Montjoie for good and the pastures of Beaufortain appear below.

Yet this is not the high point of the day. There is still more climbing to do.

The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479 m) and the Highest Refuge on the TMB

One hundred and fifty metres higher, the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479 m) marks a second step. Just below on the north side, the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,433 m) comes into view: it is the highest inhabited point on the entire circuit. Built in 1923 at the initiative of the Touring Club de France, it is an almost obligatory stop to catch your breath, eat something hot, and take in the panorama before the long descent to Les Chapieux. The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme is also the starting point for the Col des Fours variant (see below).

The Descent to Les Chapieux

From the refuge, the descent to Les Chapieux is long and steady: roughly 900 metres of elevation loss on grassy paths, then switchbacks through alpine pastures that smell of summer mountain. Beaufortain begins here. The herds of cows that produce Beaufort cheese — the "prince of Gruyeres" — graze on these slopes from June to September.

Les Chapieux (1,549 m) arrives after two to three hours of descent from the refuge. The hamlet is small: a chapel, a farm-inn, a few stone houses. It is a passage rather than a village, but after the long morning climb, even its simplicity is welcome.

Variant: The Col des Fours (2,665 m)

This is the most spectacular variant on Stage 2, and one of the wildest on the entire TMB. From the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, instead of descending directly, you continue climbing towards the Col des Fours (2,665 m) — roughly 300 metres of additional ascent.

The reward matches the effort: from this col, the western face of Mont Blanc unfolds with the Aiguille des Glaciers (3,816 m) in the foreground. A 360-degree panorama over the border massifs, without the crowds of the classic cols. The descent to Les Chapieux is more varied than the standard route, with a waterfall plunging into a rock chute carved by the torrent. Some hikers continue straight on to Les Mottets, merging Stages 2 and 3.

Tips for the Col des Fours variant: allow 1h30 to 2h more than the classic route. The Col des Fours can be snow-covered early in the season (sometimes until July) and requires an early start from Les Contamines (before 7 am) to avoid afternoon storms. In bad weather, do not attempt this variant.

Getting to Les Contamines-Montjoie or Leaving Les Chapieux

Stage 2 is also a common entry or exit point for those joining someone mid-circuit, or who need to leave the TMB after this pivotal day.

Access to Les Contamines-Montjoie: from Chamonix or Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, seasonal shuttles serve Les Contamines in summer. By car, a large car park is available in the village (return by shuttle or taxi at the end of your trip).

Leaving Les Chapieux: the hamlet is isolated — there is no regular bus service. Options are a taxi (arrange the day before from the refuge) or continuing to the Refuge des Mottets the next morning, where road access is easier. Some local providers offer luggage transfers and shuttles on request.

Accommodation for This Second Stage of the TMB

At Les Chapieux

• Auberge de la Nova (tel. 04 79 07 01 70): the only accommodation in the hamlet, with meals. Book several months in advance for July and August.

Along the Route (to Split the Day in Two)

• Refuge de Nant-Borrant (1,460 m, tel. 04 50 47 03 57): a good stopping point for those who want to spread the ascent over two days.
• Refuge de la Balme (1,706 m, tel. 04 50 47 03 54): higher up, with an open view over the alpine pastures.
• Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,433 m, tel. 04 79 07 05 28): spending the night here to start the descent at dawn with the sun rising over the ridges is one of the finest experiences on the TMB.

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 2

Water on the Route

Water points are plentiful up to the Refuge de la Balme. Above, you pass through wet areas but the quality of meltwater can vary early in the season. Carry 2 litres from Les Contamines or from Nant-Borrant.

Weather and Conditions

The ideal window for Stage 2 is between late June and mid-September. See our guide to the best time to hike the TMB for week-by-week details.

The Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479 m) is very exposed to wind and afternoon storms. Leave before 7 am from Les Contamines to reach the col before 1 pm. If the sky looks unstable in the morning, do not attempt the Col des Fours variant. The Col du Bonhomme can remain snow-covered from mid-June to early July and after the first September storms. Check conditions at the Refuge de Nant-Borrant or La Balme before heading up.

Supplies

Les Contamines-Montjoie is the last proper village with a grocery shop and bakery before Les Chapieux. Stock up on provisions before setting out.

Frequently Asked Questions — TMB Stage 2

How difficult is Stage 2 of the TMB?

Stage 2 is the most demanding stage in terms of elevation gain on the French section of the TMB: +1,379 m over ~19 km, with two cols in succession. It requires good physical fitness and an early start. The distance itself is not excessive, but legs that are not well prepared can struggle towards the end. Rated 4/5.

Can I split Stage 2 into two days?

Yes, and it is often the best strategy for the opening days of the trek. The Refuge de Nant-Borrant (1,460 m) or the Refuge de la Balme (1,706 m) allow you to stop halfway. Some hikers choose to sleep at the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,433 m) to enjoy the highest viewpoint on the circuit at sunrise, then tackle the descent with fresh legs.

Col des Fours or classic Col du Bonhomme: which one to choose?

The Col des Fours variant offers a superior panorama and a wilder route, at the cost of 1h30 to 2h extra and greater commitment. It suits experienced hikers, in fine weather, with a start before 7 am. On the TMB in 7 days, the choice depends on the group's condition and the morning weather.

What is there to see in Les Contamines-Montjoie before setting off?

The village deserves a few minutes in the morning: the Baroque church of Saint-Grat (1758-1760), built by Piedmontese craftsmen, is remarkable. The sanctuary of Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge, a 45-minute walk along the TMB trail, is even more beautiful. If you are staying in Les Contamines after Stage 1, a short walk to the sanctuary in the late afternoon is a good way to stretch your legs before the big climb the next day.

What's Next on the TMB

Les Chapieux marks the last French stop before the climb to the Col de la Seigne and the crossing into Italy. The next stage is shorter in distance but crosses the circuit's first international border, with a striking view of the Italian face of Mont Blanc.

To see how this stage fits into the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide details all 11 stages, the variants, the ideal seasons and full logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the best of the circuit into one week.

If you are coming from Stage 1 from Les Houches, your legs are already warmed up for this second day.

If you are heading on to Italy, Stage 3 to the Rifugio Elisabetta via the Col de la Seigne awaits on the other side of Les Chapieux.

Further Reading